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Sunset over the vineyard at Finca Adalgisa in Mendoza.

Family Notes Series: Curation in Wine and Hospitality

Cura­tion in wine and hos­pi­tal­i­ty begins with a sim­ple dis­ci­pline: know­ing what does not belong. Qual­i­ty rarely comes from adding.

It almost always comes from decid­ing what to leave out.

In wine, that means drop­ping clus­ters before they ripen, even though each one could have become more bot­tles. It can also mean dis­card­ing an entire bar­rel if it does­n’t match the final blend, even after the time and mon­ey it took to pro­duce it. Or leav­ing out tech­niques, vari­eties, ideas that would work per­fect­ly well in anoth­er con­text, sim­ply because they don’t belong to this par­tic­u­lar wine.

No one rais­es a glass to what a wine­mak­er chose not to use. And yet that is almost always what deter­mines the final qual­i­ty.

The same is true of hos­pi­tal­i­ty, even if it’s hard­er to see.

The temptation to add

It’s easy to con­fuse hos­pi­tal­i­ty with abun­dance. More ser­vices, more ameni­ties, more choic­es on the menu, more activ­i­ties to offer. Each new addi­tion feels, in the moment, like an improve­ment.

But a place that offers every­thing ends up with no iden­ti­ty. It starts to resem­ble every oth­er place that also offers every­thing. The feel­ing of being some­where sin­gu­lar does­n’t come from how much is avail­able — it comes from the fact that every­thing that is there is there for a rea­son, not sim­ply because some­one thought it would add up to more.

What gets lost without curation

With­out cura­tion, every­thing com­petes for atten­tion. The room wants to be spec­tac­u­lar, the gar­den wants to be spec­tac­u­lar, the menu wants to be spec­tac­u­lar, and none of them quite man­ages it, because the guest’s atten­tion scat­ters across too many things shout­ing at once.

A wine blend­ing too many vari­eties with­out dis­ci­pline los­es char­ac­ter, even if each vari­ety is excel­lent on its own. A place offer­ing too many simul­ta­ne­ous expe­ri­ences los­es char­ac­ter, even if each one is, indi­vid­u­al­ly, very good.

Cura­tion is what keeps good things from can­celling each oth­er out.

Choosing is also a form of care

Every choice also means leav­ing some­thing behind.

Reduc­ing a wine’s pro­duc­tion does­n’t mean doing less. It means decid­ing how much you are will­ing to care for. The same is true of a hotel. Not hav­ing a hun­dred rooms isn’t always a lim­i­ta­tion. Some­times it’s the only way to know every cor­ner, every plant, every detail — and above all, every guest.

You can­not care for an infi­nite num­ber of things at once.

That’s why, behind every wine and every place with real iden­ti­ty, there’s a long list of invis­i­ble deci­sions: wines that were nev­er made, rooms that were nev­er built, ser­vices that were nev­er offered, good ideas that sim­ply did­n’t belong there.

Those absences are also part of the work.

To curate is to pro­tect what makes a place unique.

Iden­ti­ty isn’t built from every­thing we’re capa­ble of doing. It’s built from every­thing we choose not to do.

That’s why cura­tion goes unno­ticed when it’s done well. Like bal­ance, it’s only noticed when it’s miss­ing.

 

Series: The Phi­los­o­phy of a Place

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Gabriela Furlotti

Gabriela Furlotti lleva más de veinte años trabajando en vino y hospitalidad en Mendoza. Fundadora de Finca Adalgisa y quien dio nueva vida a Bodega Furlotti, construye proyectos que integran viñedo, territorio y una hospitalidad que no se aprende en manuales. Escribe sobre lo que vive: vino, hospitalidad, agroecología, naturaleza, decisiones sin certezas.

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